Each Cook Should Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Earns Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors totally shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.

Catherine Jones
Catherine Jones

A UK-based travel writer and photographer documenting scenic road trips and local adventures across Britain.